Victory at Sea sinks the competition.

I tilt the bottle, and stoutish liquid fills my glass. Victory at Sea looks dense. Blacker than the waters of the Challenger Deep. And the smell — it’s a treasure trove of dark chocolate and rich vanilla. My first sip adds sharp malt and bitter coffee to the list of flavors. As it warms, the vanilla expands and irons out the bitterness, enhancing the brew’s creamy body and lingering in the aftertaste for ages. If it weren’t for the alcohol content — which actually lacks bite for 10% ABV — I’d be tempted to call this a vanilla frappuccino porter. And I mean that as a compliment.

Yar! Here be a bottle that ain’t easily sunk. (Metaphor disclaimer: Don’t go tossing yours into a lake or ocean for proof.) Complex yet highly drinkable, Victory at Sea should delight newbies and beer nerds alike. I hadn’t tried many Ballast Point beers before this one — probably because of their odd, fish-themed labels — but this porter has made a fan of me.

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